Wiper and True are a Bristolian craft brewery that was started in October 2012 by Michael Wiper and Alexander True. The duo started as home brewers, learning the rudiments in their kitchens with basic utensils and raw brewing ingredients, and then going on to working with breweries and other luminaries. They’ve called themselves ‘Beer Evangelists’ in the past, and while they pay respect to the traditions of beer making, their inclination seems to be to push boundaries, experiment with styles, and have fun while they do so. During the outset of their business, Wiper and True were ‘nomad brewers’, brewing their beer at other breweries who were kind enough to let them use their equipment. This suited them well for an initial period, and allowed them to try out different styles and techniques. Fast-forward to 2016 and the brewery was in a position to build their own brewing facilities, which ended up in the St Werburghs area in central Bristol. Later, in July 2022, a second brewery facility was completed for the company in the city’s Old Market area – much larger than the original site, and serving as the brewer’s headquarters.
Tomorrow Lager is the brewer’s first alcohol-free beer to market, and came out in mid-December 2022. The first batch of the beer sold out within days, with a second batch sent to brew shortly afterwards, which should be available to buy as I write this. The lager is brewed to full strength by the brewer, just like their other beers, but Wiper and True then use a specialized bit of kit to then strip the alcohol from the beer via the reverse osmosis process. This method is gentle, and apparently takes the brewery 60 hours in total to complete. Add to this the month or so that a traditional German lager should be left to condition – ‘lagering’ – and the lead time on a can of Tomorrow is a fair old age!
As mentioned, Tomorrow is brewed in the German Helles-style, which is fuller-bodied with more hop flavour. We’ve had several decent examples of non-alcoholic Helles before, and as it’s probably my favourite style of lager to drink I’m hoping to add Wiper and True’s brew to that list.
The beer pours a pale golden colour with good clarity, displaying a vortex of bubbles in the glass. A small frothy head is produced and the retention is good, leaving lacing down the glass as we drink. On the nose we get the yeasty, bready and spicy aromas associated with Helles lagers, with the Hallertauer Tradition and ancient Spelter hops doing the heavy lifting and piquing our senses. There’s also an underlying fruitiness there, akin to fresh green apple.
When we taste the classic Pilsner malt taste is up-front, bready and with hints of ripe fruit providing a pleasant sweetness. The hops again give a crispness to the beer, along with a herbal flavour and a touch of spice. There’s even a slight tangy sour note to round it all off. The flavours are quite complex but not jumbled, with each layer complementing the last. The body is good, not too highly carbonated, giving a smooth mouthfeel. The finish is dry and almost earthy.
Wiper and True Tomorrow Lager is a cracking nolo lager in the Helles-style, giving all those rich bready and spicy aromas and flavours you’d associate with a decent German brew. It reminds me a lot of Lucky Saint but surpasses it my opinion, with a richer, fuller flavour. For a brewer who generally has an output that tends to be over 6% ABV, their first step into the alcohol-free world is a confident stride.
Buy Wiper and True Tomorrow Lager
Wiper and True’s beers are available in discerning bottle shops and off licences, and on tap at various craft beer bars and taprooms. Tomorrow is also cropping up at such places on draught, and if you’re in the Bristol area it should be even more readily available. For the rest of us, the internet comes to the rescue:
|Nutritional Information (per 100ml, taken from the side of the can)|
|Further nutritional information not provided. Boo, hiss!|
|Water, Malt (Barley), Hops, Yeast|
|Country of Production||United Kingdom|
|Brewer||Wiper and True – https://wiperandtrue.com/|
Wiper and True Tomorrow Non-Alcoholic Lager Review
Lovely full Helles-style aromas and flavours make this a truly enjoyable lager. If you happen to be in the Bristol area, go out and buy a pint of this!